Fill or new set? Which one do you need?
One of the most common questions I get from my clients is whether it’s time for a fill or if it makes more sense to start fresh with a new set. This usually comes up when your nails look good but still “okay,” and you’re stuck trying to figure out what service you actually need to get done. If you’ve ever stared at your nails before booking and thought, “Do I need a fill, or a whole new set?” You’re definitely not alone.
Both services are meant to keep your nails looking nice and pretty as well as maintained, but choosing the right one plays a big role in your nail health, how long your sets last, and how your nails feel overall. Knowing the difference can save you money, prevent damage, and keep your nails strong and healthy.
Here’s a simple breakdown to help you feel confident about which option is right for you.
What’s a fill ?
A fill is done when you already have a set on and your natural nail has grown out. That little gap near your cuticle? Totally normal, but overtime, it affects the balance and structure of your nail.
During a fill, I remove some of the old product near your cuticle area and take off lifting if there’s any, then rebalance the nails so everything sits correctly again. This step is really important because as your nails grow, the stress point shifts forwards. If that isn’t corrected, your nails become more likely to lift, crack, or break. Once everything is balanced, I prep your nails so it’s ready for fresh products and fill in that gap near your cuticle. I also made a new apex at this point. Then I do the design of your choice so your nails look clean, polished, and well maintained again.
Fills are perfect for when your current set is still in good condition. You keep your length and structure without removing all of the product. Which is usually healthier for your natural nails when done on time.
A fill is the right choice when:
- Your nails are still intact with little to no lifting
- There’s no major cracks or breaks
- The shape is still good and feels balanced
- The product feels secured to your natural nail
- It’s been about 2-3 weeks since your last set
Staying on top of your fills helps your sets last longer and reduces any unnecessary removal, which means less stress on your natural nails.
Regular fills aren’t just about how your nails look, they play a huge role in keeping them healthy. When you stay on schedule, you avoid a lot of the issues that come from imbalance and overgrowth.
What’s a new set?
A new set means everything is removed and we start fresh. This gives me a chance to fully check the condition of your natural nails, check to see if there’s any damage, and rebuild the structure from the beginning. This is where you have the freedom to change to any different shape or length.
Sometimes, even if your nails don’t look THAT bad, it’s not safe to keep filling them. Too much lifting, thinning, or imbalance can compromise the nail, and at that point a new set is the healthier option. Starting fresh allows for proper prep, structure, and support moving forward.
A new set is also ideal if you want a noticeable change. Like switching nail products, changing your length, or going for a different shape.
You’d need a new set if:
- Multiple nails are lifting
- Your nails are cracked, broken, or very thin
- The shape has grown out too much to safely rebalance
- It’s been 8+ weeks since your last appointment
- You want a big change in length, shape, or system
Timing is everything when it comes to nail maintenance. As your natural nails grow, the apex of your nail moves forward. The apex is the highest point on your nails which keeps it from cracking and keeps the products and your nails strong. When the apex grows out, pressure isn’t distributed evenly anymore which causes lifting, cracks, and breakage.
Waiting too long between appointments also makes your nails more likely to catch on something, bend, or snap. Longer, unbalanced nails put a lot of stress on your natural nail underneath.
The Anatomy of a Nail: Why the “Apex” Actually Matters
To understand why a fill is more than just “adding more produce,” you have to understand the apex. Think of the apex like the load bearing wall of a house. It is the thickest part of your nail enhancement, that is strategically placed over the “stress area” (where your nail is most likely to bend or snap).
When your nails grow out for three weeks, that “wall” moves toward the tip of your finger. That’s when the weight is all at the end of your nail, turning it into a lever. Every time you open a soda can or type on a keyboard, you are putting massive leverage on your natural nail bed. This is why “overgrown” nails feel heavy or painful. During your appointment I physically move that apex back to the center to protect your natural nail from any snaps or cracks.
Why there’s no “one size fits all” answer
Everyone’s nails are different. Your lifestyle, how fast your nails grow, your daily habits, the natural oil your nails produce and even your nail shape all affect how long a set lasts and what service makes the most sense. Someone who uses their hands constantly may need a new set sooner than someone with a more low impact routine.
That’s why communication is so important. Choosing the right service isn’t about guessing, it’s about paying attention to how your nails look and feel.
Not sure which one you need ?
That’s completely normal. A lot of clients aren’t sure, and that’s part of my job! Helping you choose what’s healthiest for your nails.
If you’re unsure, you can always ask when booking (through my instagram) or send me a photo of your nails ahead of time. I’m happy to take a look and recommend what makes the most sense based on the condition of your nails.
Taking care of your nails doesn’t have to be confusing or stressful. With good timing, regular maintenance, and a little professional guidance, keeping your nails healthy and beautiful is actually pretty simple.